Skiing in fog: the trees, the gullies and a fresh fall of powder

Skiing in fog is very much possible, and a grey, snowy day in Val d'Isère often turns into a lovely powder day. Fog and flat light wipe out the shadows that show you the shape of a slope, so we ski where something draws it for you: trees, gullies lined with rock, lower ground. Above Le Fornet, the runs back from the Pissaillas glacier pass through the forest; on the Tignes side, the wooded slopes drop to Les Brévières at 1,550 m; and on stormy days we head for the tree runs of Sainte-Foy, about thirty minutes down the valley.

In flat light, a rock outcrop gives your eyes a clear reference point.

Flat light and whiteout, when the slope goes blank

Under low cloud, the light arrives from every direction at once. Shadows vanish, snow and air turn the same shade of white, and a slope that looked smooth from the chairlift holds a dip, a roll or a step you only feel under your skis. Skiers call it flat light. When the horizon goes as well, it becomes a whiteout, and some people feel their balance waver while standing still. Skiing in low visibility means skiing where something breaks up the white.

Trees, rock and the lower slopes

Trees do it best. Each trunk stands out against the white, the snow between them keeps its shape, and the forest takes the edge off the wind. Where the larches stand well apart, there is room for long, open turns, and the snow there stays soft and untracked for longer. On the Tignes side, the woods above Les Brévières sketch the slope while everything higher up stays white.

Deep-set gullies do the same job with stone. Their walls frame the slope on both sides, and the dark rock gives your eye an edge to hold. Lower down, you often slip beneath the cloud, and the contrast returns as you descend.

When the wind closes the high lifts, the north-west-facing tree runs of Sainte-Foy stay sheltered and skiable, and keep fresh snow long after the bigger areas are tracked. A day of skiing in fog there has a quiet, private feel to it.

On a snowy day, the larch woods give back the contrast that the open slopes lose.

A snowy day is good news

The day is grey because snow is falling, and snow is what you came for. On a storm day the slopes refill as you ski them, and the line you took at ten may be soft and smooth again by lunchtime. The light asks for a little patience. The snow repays it, and many of our deepest days of the winter have come under a low ceiling, with snow settling on the shoulders of the group at every stop.

Goggles and a spare pair

Bring a lens made for low light: clear, yellow or rose, or a photochromic one that lightens as the cloud thickens. It brings back the contours the grey takes away. Keep a second pair in a pocket, goggles or sunglasses, for the moment the first fogs up. Between runs, keep your goggles on your face; up on the helmet, falling snow slips inside and melts against the lens.

Skiing in bad weather, with a close group

Each morning starts with the Météo-France avalanche bulletin for the Haute-Tarentaise massif, which covers Val d'Isère and Tignes. Fresh snow and wind load the slopes, and the bulletin sets out where the risk lies; your instructor reads it against what the snow shows on the hill. Our Val d'Isère snow report gives the forecast altitude by altitude, from the village to the glacier. For skiing in bad weather, the group stays close: we regroup where everyone can see one another, keep within earshot, and each of you carries an avalanche airbag pack, transceiver, shovel and probe, which we provide. Some days call for a gentler slope or a return to the pistes, and your instructor makes that call. Our safety principles set out how we work.

A grey day with us

You ski with a qualified instructor who specialises in off-piste, for a private day or a full week, and we choose the sector each morning going by the bulletin, the cloud and your level. Boris Malesset, who founded PowderWeGo, has worked in off-piste skiing since 2001 and has lived in Val d'Isère since 2005. For the wider picture, read about choosing Val d'Isère for off-piste skiing, and our ski stay in Val d'Isère page covers the rest of the week.

As the cloud closes in, the group skis close together, near the rocks that keep the slope readable.

We take you off-piste in Val d'Isère in every kind of weather, so tell us your dates and your group on our school's off-piste page and we'll reply within 24 hours.

FAQ

Is it safe to ski when it's snowing?

Yes, and a snowy day is often when you find the softest snow. Heavy snowfall with wind raises the avalanche risk off-piste, so the morning bulletin decides where we go, and on the stormiest days we stay in the trees or on the pistes.

Can you ski in the rain or sleet?

You can. Lower down the snow turns heavy and wet, so a waterproof shell and a spare pair of gloves make all the difference. Rain on fresh snow also changes the snowpack, so we check the bulletin and often head higher, where the same weather may still fall as snow.

Is it safe to ski when it's well below freezing?

Yes, with the right layers. Midwinter mornings in Val d'Isère are cold, and the things to watch are wind on bare skin and cold fingers: a buff or face mask, mittens and a warm mid-layer keep the day comfortable.

Which goggle lens works in flat light?

A clear, yellow or rose lens, or a photochromic one, lets more light through and sharpens the contours. Dark mirrored lenses suit sunshine and leave you guessing in cloud. Keep a spare pair in a pocket.

Do we cancel the day if a whiteout comes in?

Rarely. We move to the trees, the gullies or lower slopes, where the contrast returns; if the cloud sits everywhere, we ski the pistes or wait for it to lift over a coffee. Your instructor makes the call on the day.